Exploring South Korea: Climbing Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail

When I was planning my trip to Jeju Island a few months ago, I knew that I wanted to do some hiking. Jeju Island is known for its many hiking trails, but the most popular ones are the ones that lead to Hallasan, the crown jewel of the island and the tallest mountain in South Korea.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hallasan National Park offers a diverse network of trails catering to various skill levels. However, only two of them reach the summit: Gwaneumsa Trail and Seongpanak Trail. Earlier this month, I conquered Hallasan by hiking Gwaneumsa Trail, so I'll tell you all about it in this blog post.

My Experience Climbing Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail

Now, Gwaneumsa might not be the most glamorous trail – it's known for being the most challenging route to the summit.

So why did I choose this trail? Well, for starters, I packed light for this trip, and I didn't want to pack trekking shoes, which I know I'll only be using once. Seongpanak Trail may be less challenging with more gradual ascents, but it's also more technical. With Gwaneumsa, running shoes will do because it's mostly stairs, but more on that later. Also, considering it was June – the trail would be dry and not slippery, which meant that it would've been a completely safe hike in running shoes.

Every trail has its pros and cons, and with Gwaneumsa, the pro is that you don't need to be decked out in full trekking gear during the summer. The con is that it's mostly stairs, so it's essential that you prepare yourself for a leg workout unlike any other. I did a lot of research before deciding to do this hike, so I had a couple of months to train by running. Luckily, I live in a mountainous area and there was no shortage of uphill roads for me to run on.

From the blogs I read, it would take the average hiker around 7 to 8 hours to climb Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail out and back. With this in mind, I started the hike early, at around 5:40am.

The trail is cleverly divided into color-coded zones based on difficulty. The green zone was a gentle introduction to what's ahead. It was a nice warm-up for my legs before the real climb began. During this part of the hike, I went on an easy pace to soak in the atmosphere and admire the lush surroundings.

a view from a bridge in the green zone

After about an hour of hiking in the green zone, I finally entered the first red zone. And yes, there are two of them. You'll know you're finally in the red zone when you encounter a very steep set of stairs past acute little bridge.

The red zone is the section that truly earns the Gwaneumsa Trail its reputation. Here, endless stairs wound their way through the lush forest, testing my endurance with every step. And even though I trained for this hike, I still experienced some difficulty.

I really thought that these stairs would be the death of me

Throughout the trail, there are numerous rest areas where hikers can stop and rest for a bit without getting in the way of the other hikers. These rest areas even have some benches. In the red zone, there are two shelters with covered areas and toilets: Tamnagyegok Valley Shelter and Samgakbong Shelter.

Samgakbong is located at the end of the first red zone. It also has a cut-off time of 1pm to ensure that you have enough time to reach the summit before it closes. If you reach this shelter past 1pm, you'll have to go back without ever reaching the summit. Take note that Samgakbong is also the last shelter on the trail. There's no shelter or toilet at the summit of Hallasan.

view from the Samgakbong Shelter

After the red zone, a bit of relief awaits in the yellow zone. The inclines start to ease, offering some flatter sections mixed in with the stairs. This gave me some time to catch my breath and enjoy the views.

Finally, I got to the final red zone, which was the toughest and most rewarding part of the climb. The stairs came back in full force, but this time with amazing views as my prize. The earlier parts of the trail offered short peeks at the scenery, but the last red zone exploded with panoramic vistas that left me in awe. It was a super tough climb, but the closer I got to the summit, the more I pushed myself, wanting to see the incredible view from the top.

some flat parts of the yellow zone

This last red zone was a real challenge, but the rewards were unbeatable views and the bragging rights of conquering Hallasan.

It's worth noting that the trail is very well-established all throughout the hike, with clear markers. Some parts of the trail even had rope boarders on both sides. Even if you're hiking alone, you won't need a guide, and it would be nearly impossible to get lost.

After 4 hours of climbing, I finally made it to the top of Hallasan! My legs were jelly and I was breathing hard from the fresh mountain air, but it was totally worth it. The first thing I did was join the line of hikers waiting to take a picture with the big rock that marks the peak. After snapping some photos, I found a spot to sit down and rest while eating a gimbap roll that I brought with me.

obligatory photo with the stone marker at the summit

I spent about an hour just relaxing and enjoying the amazing views before making my way back to the trailhead. I took the same trail going back. If I had proper hiking gear, I would've traversed via Seongpanak Trail, but maybe that's for another time.

How to Get to the Gwaneumsa Trailhead

Being an early bird hiker, I opted for a convenient Kakaotaxi from my hotel. At KRW13,000, it was a budget-friendly way to reach the trailhead before sunrise. If you leave your hotel after 6am, then public buses are also an option, but the travel time will take you about an hour, which means you'll probably be starting the hike around 7 or 7:30am. I was really mindful of the cut-off times so I started as early as I could.

Tips for Climbing Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail

Here are some tips and things you need to know before even deciding to climb Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail.

Reservations are required.

This might seem obvious, but don't underestimate the power of preparation. Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak, which are trails leading to the peak, require a reservation. This is to limit the number of people at the summit. Before you're allowed to enter the trails, they will check if you have a reservation. Reservations are free, though, and you can easily make them online through the Visit Halla website.

forest area in the yellow zone

Bring enough hydration and food.

This goes without saying, but the mountains can be surprisingly unforgiving. Make sure to bring enough water to last the entire hike, factoring in the hot summer sun if you're climbing during those months. Don't be shy about carrying extra – it's always better to have too much than not enough, especially on a challenging climb like this.

Food-wise, pack energizing snacks and a filling lunch to keep your body fueled throughout the journey. Think granola bars, trail mix, sandwiches, or anything else to keep your energy levels up. Remember, you're carrying it all on your back, so strike a balance between packing enough and keeping your pack light.

When I did the climb, I packed 1 liter of water and a 500-ml bottle of Gatorade. For food, I packed one roll of gimbap, three Kitkat bars, and a pack of coffee candy to keep me awake. Take note that everyone is different. Some people may need less than what I packed, while some may need more.

sea of clouds at the summit

Pack smart.

Pack according to the season. While proper shoes are always better, you can skip the fancy hiking gear for summer climbs. Running shoes with good traction are enough, especially if you're packing light on this Jeju trip. Bring light rain gear, just in case, and layers for changing weather conditions.

Train for the hike.

I'll be real here - hiking Hallasan via Gwaneumsa and probably Seongpanak, too, requires a good level of fitness. The trail is known for being the most challenging route to the summit. It's a long hike with a significant elevation gain, and most of the path is made up of stairs. This means a lot of climbing and continuous uphill effort.

this greeted me upon reaching the summit

Be prepared for a long day on your feet. The average hike takes around 7 to 9 hours, so you'll need the stamina to keep going for an extended period.

Gwaneumsa might be a challenging climb, but the sense of accomplishment I felt reaching the peak was unparalleled. It's a hike that demands both physical and mental grit, but the reward is an unforgettable experience.

Exploring South Korea: Climbing Hallasan via Gwaneumsa Trail