Of Surfing and Life

Sunday, January 21, 2018

Surfing is such a beautiful and exciting sport. While from the outside looking in, it seems dangerous (and yes, it can be), there's nothing quite like the feeling of actually trying it. It will give you a whirlwind of emotions.

There's the feeling of anticipation when you're paddling out, going to the line-up. When you're so looking forward to catch a wave, mixed with the feeling of uncertainty, not knowing what is out there. Then there's the feeling of prolonged agony while waiting for the perfect wave. There will be times when you see a seemingly great one and you get ready to ride it and yet it becomes nothing. In Tagalog, paasa. That or you came on too slow that you get left behind.

Sometimes, you will experience getting wiped out. It's when you end up getting knocked out and falling into the ocean. And you feel the water just wash over you and the current pulling you under. You might feel suffocated, or trapped even. But don't worry, because no matter what happens, you will end up resurfacing. You will rise from it. And you just have to try again.

There will be times when you will be bored just waiting, and the wait is simply too long that you just want to give up. Or you might want to give up because of the many wipe-outs that you experienced. But you don't give up. Ever. You keep waiting and trying. Because when you do catch a wave, nothing beats the feeling of riding it. It will give you an adrenaline mixed with sheer joy and excitement. It will give you happiness like no other. And you will realize that no matter how long you waited and how many times you got wiped out, it was all worth it. 

Life is exactly like surfing. You keep waiting and waiting for opportunities. You keep waiting for the right person, the right job, etcetera etcetera. And you will miss some of them. Some you will try to grab, but you will end up failing and there is nothing wrong with that. Failure is a part of life. Just like getting wiped out, you will resurface and recover every time you fail. So you just have to keep trying. Because once you see that perfect opportunity, you will not stop until you get it. Once you meet the right person, you will do everything to be with them, to keep them, and to keep them happy. And at the end of the day, despite the long wait and despite the struggles and hiccups along the way, you know that they are worth it.

Now, I can type a hundred more words describing surfing, but you will never know how it feels unless you try it. I suggest that you do.
About the surfer: Allan is a local surfer from La Union, who has been catching 
waves for thirteen years now. He has participated in several surfing competitions 
in the country and is regular instructor at the Surfstar School of Surfing.
Photos were taken by yours truly. :)